Fine Food and Drinks of Greece
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The Indigenous White Varieties

Assyrtiko (a SEER tee ko) is a fine multi-purpose variety, maintaining its acidity as it ripens. Similar in character to Riesling, assyrtiko can be vinified in a range of styles as well. This grape is classic in sweet VINSANTO (in caps as that is how the Greeks spell it!) from Santorini, and fruity dry wines from Macedonia and Attica (the region surrounding Athens), although most assyrtiko is island-based. Santorini producer Sigalas Wines sets the standard for this variety, producing classic un-oaked wines as well as oaked versions, and VINSANTOS, of course! Gai'a Estate in the Peloponnese region also produces a delicious assyrtico from Santorini. Biblia Chora in the northern Macedonia region near Thessalonki blends assyrtiko with sauvignon blanc to create a minerally, well-balanced wine. Domaine Evharis also grows assyrtiko on an estate near the Gerania Mountains between Athens and Corinth to good results, which it blends with chardonnay in one cuvee and bottles alone in another.

Athiri (ah THEE ree) is a lower acid variety, and one of the most ancient. Originally from Santorini, it is now planted in Macedonia, Attica and Rhodes as well. Athiri grapes have a thin skin and give sweet and fruity juice.
It produces slightly aromatic wines, having medium alcoholic content. Athiri is a common sight on Rhodes, where producer Emery makes only athiri whites and they claim a fine mineral-laden and floral character.

Lagorthi (la GOR thee) Since its revival,
the lagorthi variety is cultivated mainly on high slopes (850 meters) by the Oenoforos Winery in the Peloponnese. The grape produces a very malic and fruity wine; Oenoforos also gives it some lees contact and micro-oxygenation to broaden
the palate.

Malagousia (mah lah gou ZYA) Evangelos Gerovassiliou of Domaine Gerovassiliou winery was the first to begin experimenting with this nearly extinct grape, now found mainly in Macedonia. It is an especially aromatic grape leading to elegant full bodied wines, with medium-plus acidity and exciting perfumed aromas of exotic fruits, citrus (especially lime), and mint.

Moschofilero (mos ko FEE le ro) A distinct aromatic and floral variety from the AOC region of Mantinia, in the Peloponnese. The grapes sport a gray cast, and its wines offer a crisp and floral character. The Domaine Spiropoulos winery produces a particularly fine, slightly malic version from organically-cultivated vines – very floral, with a bit of a phenolic character due to skin contact. Gai'a Estate also blends this successfully with roditis.

Robola (ro BO la) is most grown in the mountainous vineyards of the Ionian
island of Cephalonia and claims a smoky mineral character. Cephalonian producer Gentilini's lovely robola offers a broad chalky concentration.

Roditis (ro DEE tees) is very popular in Attica, Macedonia, Thessaly, and the Peloponnese where it is cultivated for the production of light AOC Patra wines.

As the name implies, roditis is a pale pink color and produces the best results when cultivated with low yields on mountainous slopes. Roditis can produce elegant, light white wines with citrus flavors. Skouras Estate in the Peloponnese, the ubiquitous Boutari and many others make both pale and rosé wines from this popular variety.

Savatiano (sa va tya NO) is the predominant white grape in the region of Attica where it displays excellent heat resistance and shows a distinct floral and fruity aroma. The grape is low in acid, often giving wines a flabby character. Domaine G. Kokotos makes a pleasant version. Savatiano can be made into a pleasant rosé, as well. It is also often the base grape for Retsina, which has the additional flavors of resin or pine; you either love it or hate it! (But please don't ever think that this is what Greek wine is all about!)

 
 
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