Chef Christos Mousouroulis

You know a cuisine has gone global when you overhear a Sri Lankan waiter explain the basics of Greek yogurt dip to a German tourist on a postage stamp-sized island in the Maldives.

There are many things you would expect to find at a luxury resort in the Indian Ocean - white sand, azure sea, the occasional (friendly) shark - but what you wouldn't expect to find is a gourmet Mediterranean restaurant manned by a young Greek chef. With apologies to Douglas Adams, it really is the restaurant at the end of the universe, and it serves dolmades. Christos Mousouroulis did not set out to become a chef. His father, the chef du cuisine at Athens’ prestigious Intercatering Company, actively discouraged such a career path. “As a teenager, I worked for my father as a sous chef. He was trying to show me how hard the work was; not to follow”, remembers Christos. But after the obligatory stint in the Greek Army (which he enjoyed, forsooth!), he had to consider his options. Though a champion amateur boxer, he had no interest in pursuing a sports career and the truth was, he missed the kitchen. So he enrolled in Xenia Ipsos, Greece’s hotel management and culinary school in Crete. “It was one of the best experiences of my life,” says Christos. “In general, I love Crete. It is one of my favorite islands.”

After graduating, Christos was hired by a trendy fish restaurant in Athens. He also lent a hand at his family’s workplace, where his sister was the chef du party.
“By then my father was retired,” he told me. Laughing, he added, “but we still bring the champ out for special occasions.” Soon he came to the notice of the mana­gement of the historic five-star hotel, the Grande Bretagne. He held several posts at this property, including demi-chef in what was then the Winter Garden, eventually being assigned to the relaunch of the upscale brasserie, GB’s Corner in time for the 2004 Olympics. The executive chef for the project was Ernst Luther Frank, who is something of a legend where hotel kitchens are concerned, having worked in prestigious hotels the world over, including the UK, Sweden, Switzerland, Saudi Arabia, the Philippines, South Korea, China, Syria, Ethiopia and Kuwait. “In my opinion,” says Christos of Frank, “a master chef.”

When both the food and beverage manager and the general manager of the Grande Bretagne moved to the Intercontinental Abu Soma, a luxury Red Sea resort, they asked Christos to come along as the Chef du Cuisine for a new Greek restaurant then in the planning stages. It was an opportunity taken that would reap many benefits. The most important: his introduction to the ravishing Rasha Swanky, a graduate of the Helwan University with a specialty in Foreign Trade. What they traded were vows. Then there was the job. “Of course I enjoyed working at the Grande Bretagne,” he said, “and I learned a lot. But they promoted a more international flavor and this new position allowed me to explore the traditional aspects of Greek cuisine.” His signature dish, which soon became a customer favorite, was braised leg of lamb in lemon sauce.

The restaurant made a point of using products that were actually from Greece, as opposed to Greek-like products sourced locally.

The restaurant made a point of using products that were actually from Greece, as opposed to Greek-like products sourced locally. “And if we couldn’t find the right products,” says Christos, “I’d just fill up my suitcase during one of my quick trips home.” That’s dedication, especially since the restaurant carried a full complement of Greek wines.

When his contract was up, he was again offered a new job, this time by Ashley Coleman, another well-respected and accomplished hotel chef who was lea­ving Egypt to become the Executive Chef for the Anatara Resort in the Maldives. “Really,” says Christos, “you should be interviewing Ashley. He may have been born in Australia, but he is actually just as Greek as I am, if not more so, in terms of his understanding of Greek Cuisine.”

With the help of Ashley Coleman, Christos created what must be the first authentic Mediterranean restaurant in the Indian Ocean – and the first to feature traditional Greek dishes. “I view Greece as the core of Mediterranean Cuisine,” says Christos. Called “The Living Room” and situated on Anatara’s 6-star property, Naladhu, the restaurant is open 24/7. This means even breakfast can be Greek. “I hesitated to put Greek yogurt on the menu, served the traditional way [with honey, fruit and nuts]. I mean, who was going to order it? Would you believe? It is our most popular breakfast order.” Christos uses actual Greek yogurt, from Fage, though he strains it himself, as opposed to purchasing it pre-strained (“It tastes fresher that way,” he says).

His kitchen staff could double as the patrons of the lunch room at the United Nations; they are literally from everywhere. The possibility for new forms of
fusion are endless, but Christos says he prefers to keep dishes authentic. “It is a chef’s dream to work with people who are so knowledgeable about so many different cuisines. Cooking is never-ending; you can always learn something new. So, to showcase this talent, we offer theme nights.”

Keeping things authentic – at least authentically Mediterranean – can be a challenge in the Maldives. It is a long way from Europe, so it isn’t possible to simply pop home and fill a suitcase with desired ingredients. There is always the possibility that some enterprising business person will one day fulfill the need for superior food and beverage import and warehousing services in the Maldives (That was a hint, gentle readers). But despite its isolation, or perhaps, in part, because of it, the Maldives feels familiar to Christos. “The Greek islands and the Maldives share that same, sexy feeling and closeness with the sea,” he says. Mykonos on the Indian Ocean, indeed – and with the food to match.e