Raising the Bar on Grecian Fine Dining

Fine Dining Greek food is deeply rooted in tradition and culture, so it may seem unusual to see a chef of Spanish descent in the kitchen of a major Greek restaurant. In a city as diverse as New York, however, few people bat an eye, and those who question the culinary skills of Ralphael Abrahante soon find themselves eating their words and savoring his impassioned, innovative dishes.

"Greek cuisine is not just for Greeks," says Steve Makris, the brainchild behind Thalassa, the upscale restaurant located in

New York City’s trendy Tribeca neighborhood. "It’s not ethnic or a trend," he continues, "It’s mainstream, and if you are a good chef who is knowledgeable and appreciates the essence of the cuisine, you will succeed. As one of our sous-chefs for four years, Abrahante had an intimate knowledge of our existing kitchen and understood our philosophy."

Born and raised in New York City, Abrahante developed a fascination for cooking early in life and acquired a taste for the cuisines of other countries by eating at the wide variety of restaurants that filled his hometown. After graduation, he enrolled at the New York Restaurant School.

His first job was at a Greek restaurant, where he immediately fell in love with the flavors and techniques that typify Greek cooking. "It was in these kitchens that I came to understand and appreciate what it takes to become a good chef," says Abrahante. "And of course, I’m thankful to all those chefs for passing on their knowledge and skill." After working his way through some of New York’s top eateries, Abrahante was hired at Thalassa.

Thalassa is located in the former warehouse of Greek food importer Fantis Foods, Inc. The Fantis business, founded by Argirios Fantis in 1910, is still a family affair, with patriarch George G. Makris serving as president and CEO and sons Jerry and Steve in key financial, operational and developmental positions. Today, the company continues to bring hundreds of Greek foods to America and Canada. Dodonis dairy products (think premium Feta cheese), numerous estate and extra virgin olive oils, Kozani saffron and a host of other imports are available through the company to North America. One division is devoted solely to wine selections from Greece, including those from Antonopoulos, Lazaridis, and possibly the largest winery in Greece, Tsantali. Thalassa serves as a showcase for all of the delicious food and wine that the Makris family enterprise has to offer. Opened in 2002, the restaurant quickly established itself as an innovator in Manhattan’s Greek culinary scene.

Walking through the doors of Thalassa (Greek for ‘sea’) is like stepping into a chic Mediterranean eatery that has yet to be discovered by tourists. There are no clichés at the restaurant: the spacious interior is lined with exposed brick walls and cream columns, lending an airy feel that is at once homey and exotic.

The food is the star at Thalassa. The chef and culinary crew are content to keep a low-profile to focus on pleasing customers’ palates. Abrahante describes his culinary style as traditional Greek with a modern twist: "I believe if you embrace the freshness and simplicity of the cuisine and respect its ancient roots, you can then present the cuisine in a contemporary way."

Thalassa has built its reputation on freshness and quality, including its selections of whole grilled fish flown in fresh from the Mediterranean, and its signature dish, Diver Scallops wrapped in Kataifi with sheep’s milk butter and a Kalamata balsamic reduction. Abrahante’s influence is felt in some of Thalassa’s newest menu items: the Lamb Shank Ravioli, for example, came about when Abrahante did a little experimenting with the restaurant’s signature lamb shank dish. "Lamb is an integral part of Greek cuisine. The ravioli is a nice way to give people a taste without committing to a large entree."