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Nothing says summer like Ouzo on ice. That is, if you’re Greek. For the rest of the world, Ouzo is something of a non-starter. National drinks of other countries, like Sake and Sambuca, have cross-border appeal. A Grappa after dinner is now de rigueur in the metropolitan cities I visit, and not just to follow an Italian meal. But Ouzo has never caught on outside of Greece.
This is a pity, because Ouzo – or, rather, good Ouzo – has much to offer. It is an excellent aperitif, refreshing and mild (when blended with water); it is a versatile cocktail liquor, especially mixed with orange or lemon juice; and it can be used to add an interesting dash of flavor to sauces. I add it to my seafood cocktail sauce, for example.
Ouzo Origins
Ouzo is a descendant of a drink called Tsipouro. Traditionally, Tsipouro is said to have been the pet product of a group of 14th century monks living in a monastery on holy Mount Athos.
Divine inspiration was probably not a factor in its creation. Monasteries in those days were more concerned with building businesses than churches:
think Sony of the Sacred Heart or Our Lady of Exxon. Tsipouro is produced from the pomace, or residue of the wine press – those thrifty monks! One version of it is flavored with Anise. It is this version that eventually came to be called Ouzo.
Anise-flavored liquors have been around since ancient times. Anise was used by the Classical Greeks as cure for
insomnia and as a breath freshener.
Distillation of the drink called Ouzo began in the 19th century, following Greek Independence. Production was centered on the island of Lesvos, now known as Mytilene, on which aniseed grows in abundance. Recently, in 2006, Ouzo was made a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) product. This means that only Greek producers may use the name,
at least in countries that recognize this EU-enforced designation.
Making Ouzo
Traditionally, quality Ouzo is distilled
(at least two times and often three) in copper stills containing pure ethyl alcohol derived from pomace, and anise.
Other flavorings, such as cloves, coriander or cinnamon, may also
be added. (The composition of flavoring ingredients are often closely-guarded company secrets and serve to distinguish one Ouzo from another.)
“The essence of this distillation process, Ouzo Yeast, is then stored in tanks to allow the various flavors to meld”
He usually takes small pieces from several points on the cheese mass and kneads them after dipping them in warm water (70-80C). If these test pieces can form a filament at least a meter long, the process is complete. If the mass hasn’t fully ripened, it will be hard to knead, it will form many creases within the cheese head, scars will form at various contact points within the mold and it will not absorb salt properly. This is a recipe for an inferior quality cheese. If ripening proceeds beyond the optimum, then the mass is not cohesive, breaks occur during kneading and the cheese acquires a deep yellow color and a hard texture with many cracks and holes. These are obviously serious defects.
The essence of this distillation process, known as Ouzo Yeast, is then stored in tanks to allow the various flavors to meld. Before bottling, spring water is added to dilute this "yeast", usually to about 40% alcohol by volume. This is the right way
to do it. Sadly, there are Ouzos on the market of far lesser quality. While Greek law dictates that 20% of the alcohol of the final product must come from
Ouzo Yeast, taste dictates that a far higher percentage must come from this source.
The ‘bad’ Ouzos use the least amount of Ouzo Yeast as possible, adding plain ethyl alcohol and sometimes sugar to make up the difference. Hangovers are nearly guaranteed. Recently the Greek Government proclaimed that Ouzo based 100% on pomace-derived ethyl alcohol may declare this fact on its label.
Goodbye headaches. Yet there are several Ouzos that do not adhere to this 100% ideal that are still excellent.
Enjoying Ouzo
Ouzo is rarely consumed at night in Greece. It is an antidote to the heat,
best enjoyed in the afternoon. While it can be imbibed at lunch, it is a drink that claims it’s own, special meal.
These meals are taken at eating establishments known as, surprise, surprise, Ouzerias. These proliferate all over Greece, from the largest urban centers to the most meager villages. Sometimes the food is good;
sometimes it is even great. That isn’t the point. The point is to eat dishes designed explicitly to enhance the pleasure of drinking Ouzo.
These dishes are all mezedes (small plates). They are set in the middle of the table and they are meant to be shared. Some of the more typical mezedes include grilled octopus, marinated fish and cheese saganaki (fried cheese, usually a sheeps’ milk cheese called Kasseri). Salty, pungent dishes all, they work well with liquor they honor.
Whatever tidbits are on offer, it is the Ouzo bottle that takes pride of place. This is accompanied by a small ice bucket, a pitcher of water and a glass for each of the ritual’s participants.
These glasses are also designed for Ouzo. About four inches tall and fairly thin, they most resemble super-sized shot glasses. Each participant selects his or her glass, chooses the desired amount of ice and elects whether or not to add a bit of water. If water is added, the liquor turns a lovely, cloudy white –
a side effect of one of the chemical properties of anise.
Then it is bottoms up, followed hours later by a restful nap. Perhaps this experience is not easy to duplicate outside of Greece, but in my opinion it is well worth the effort.
