
One of the things you can only find in Greece is mastic, these resinous crystals that grow in Chios. It is a very interesting ingredient with so much potential. It grows only in Chios, and even there, only in [the region of] Mastihohoria. I use mastic for deserts and sweets. Ouzo might be another Greek product you can most easily find in Greece. There are occasions where I use ouzo for cooking purposes, too. Sardines and gavros (anchovies) are easily found in Greece contrary to the US, for example. Also, although you can find octopus in other places, too, for me, it is a most characteristic signifier of Greek cuisine. Octopuses drying in the sun in front of small taverns always connote the image of Greece to me.
There are regional differences in ingredients. Fish, for instance, although it does not have a specific nationality, varies according to the region it grows. This regional difference, as is the case with barbounia (red mullet), affects how the fish tastes. The same applies to olive oil. Olive oil tastes differently according to the region the olives are produced. Olive oil from Mani on the Peloponnesus tastes differently than olive oil from Mytilini.
Do you believe there is a wider market for ‘exotic’ Greek ingredients? Do you think they would appeal to chefs outside of Greece?
I certainly believe that there is a wider market for Greek ‘exotic’ products. The only thing we Greeks aren’t doing right is translating the beauty of our genuine Greek products into a language understandable to other cultures. We need to find a common language capable of fully describing the beauty and essence of our products and cuisine to somebody who is unfamiliar with it. An attractive presentation of Greek specialties is the key in doing this. The Italians and the Spanish have accomplished making their products desirable and highly appreciated all over the world. Greece, having its own extraordinary products to offer, can certainly accomplish the same. It’s simply a matter of doing the right marketing. And this is exactly where Greece is weak.
Greek ingredients already appeal to chefs outside Greece. Olive oil is widely being used. The mezes (small plate) trend is becoming more and more popular. Chefs outside of Greece need to learn how to play with Greek ingredients and discover how to prepare and include them in their menus. Look at Ricotta cheese, an equivalent to Greek anthotyro. There are hundreds of recipes for ricotta cheese but none for anthotyro. Or for manouri, another very interesting Greek cheese. Exactly the same thing applies to Grappa and its Greek equivalent, tsipouro.
Describe your idea of the ideal supermarket?
My ideal supermarket would not sell frozen and ready-made food. These are products that don’t concern me – I don’t know what those are and I don’t understand them. There are so many other ways to eat, without spending either a lot of time or a lot of money. Fresh bread with an excellent cheese. Or, with some good cold meat. Another alternative I personally favor is pasta with garlic and olive oil. And don’t forget the notorious Greek salad.
My ideal supermarket would have a rich variety of artisanal and high-quality cheeses. I would be able to find everything that my country produces, from avgotaraho to all kinds of horta. I don’t necessarily mean expensive and exclusive products; I would want to find lobster, but also anchovies and sardines. Preferably, my supermarket would include a garden with fresh fruits and vegetables. However, I don’t consider it necessary to find everything in a supermarket at all times of the year. For instance, I don’t want to find tomatoes in the winter, because it’s not their season. My ideal supermarket would also have a big selection of spices, olive oils and vinegars. Quality would underline all available products.
The image many American, British and other foreigners have of Greek food is that of the diner (especially in the US). Dishes like Mousaka, Pasticcio, and roasted lamb. How much resemblance do you believe there is between diner Greek and real Greek?
I do not think that Greek diner food is representative of Greek food in general, although mousaka is a traditional Greek dish. Usually diner food is not prepared properly and the ingredients are not of the desired quality. And for sure, mousaka and the other standard dishes at diners are not the sole expression of Greek cuisine.
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